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 Post subject: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:53 am
Posts: 526
Location: Las Vegas, NV
This Guide covers Forestry and Extra Bees.
It reads like a walkthrough, with as few spoilers in text as possible; however, the Excel-style "Master Apiarist Database" can be opened with links throughout the guide for full spoilers.

As of June 2013, the Database is probably out of date, and things in the walkthrough may be slightly incorrect, or completely changed. I haven't played FTB in a few months, but I see things on the reddit that indicate things have changed. And then there's the Magic Bees mod which add a completely different dynamic and is not covered here. I still think this guide is a good starting point and will be helpful to beginner Apiarists for awhile yet. I can't say if it will ever be updated further at this time.

Quick Search:
0. Getting Started
----Basic Tools
----Hive Bees
----Apiaries
----Frames
1. Beealyzer (Forestry) and Apiarist Database (Extra Bees)
2. Crossbreeding - Mutations
3. Crossbreeding - Refining Traits
4. Cloning
5. Master Apiarist Database v2.0 (Google Docs) - Spoilers -- Updated for all FTB packs that include Forestry, Extra Bees (v1.5.0.4+) and/or Thaumic Bees
----MAD v1.0 is no longer being updated and the Google Docs for this one will be removed shortly!! Change your links!
----Mutation Guide - Mutations 99% complete; Produce and Chance to Mutate 99% complete!
----Complete List of Species with full default traits - 95% complete Might be missing a few climates still but very near complete
----Centrifuged Products - 95%+ complete Includes all products, including GregTech and non-GregTech results
----Climate by Biome - 95%+ complete, including Twilight Forest and Extra Biomes XL
6. Crafted Bee Products
7. Automation (Nothing here yet but a useful link)
8. Advanced - DNA Machines - Extra Bees
9. Advanced - The Alveary - Forestry


Guide News 3/6/13

MAD v2.0 is accessible. It's got some bugs, oops, and quirks but I'll get them worked out. Specifically: I removed some bees because I couldn't find them in DW20 (non-GregTech); sorting GregTech results out of the products list doesn't work so well; and default climates are still not quite done. Plans to add a list of Effects and what they do.

Guide News 3/1/13

I have started revamping the Master Apiarist Database offline because the updates/changes are overwhelming. When I'm ready, it will change all in one shot (if all goes well, copy/paste style so the link doesn't change), and become v2.0.


Guide News 2/20/13

Long busy weekend, so I heard a day late that Binnie added 20+ new bees (awesome!) though I haven't seen if it's in the pack yet. Thaumic Bees has been added to the updated DW20 pack, but not the Mindcrack pack (boo). I'll see if I can get them *all* added to the Database this week nevertheless.

Sengir recently made an intentional change to drones piping into an apiary and stacking up. This has most likely thrown a wrench into what little I know of Automation.


Guide News 2/12/13

Got some Alvearies built, got all my lovely DNA machines. Aaaand I have the new Extra Bees blocks added to the Alveary section (information from Binnie's MCF thread).

"Automation" is the only section currently empty but it's also the biggest to tackle since there's just so many options in FTB (and I don't know all of the other mods in FTB that well). I know Alvearies are a little busted with BC pipes in my current version -- they're not inputting at all. But I've seen some working setups with routers. What I want this section to cover is what works with both bee houses and what doesn't (BC, RP2, Factorization, etc?), and the advantages/disadvantages of each.

Also, centrifuge/squeezer/therm. fabricator recipes are busted in NEI atm, but I've started adding special crafted products. I know I'm missing a few though (no worries).

Database - Got more of the default traits typed in, should wrap that up in a day or two. Default Climate/Tolerances should be next, and I plan to add the Squeezer recipes to the Database soonish. I might still add a tab for biome climates, including EBXL, and I'm considering adding a list of all possible Serum traits. At this point the only ones I think are not possible are exact Climate/Temp (meaning "Normal", "Arid", etc.). Really unecessary with Tolerances.

After "Automation" finally gets content, and the Database is 99%+ completed (because I expect things to change with every new update of Extra Bees), I'm thinking of expanding this first post to include an "I just want to know how to..." sort-of-FAQ. I'm finding there are questions that people post over and over again, and also there's information that is rarely, if ever, mentioned, but doesn't really go anywhere else. And of course, I'll be polishing up a lot of the other sections until they really shine, including adding more screenshots/pictures.



1/30/13 -- Working behind the scenes, I swear! We're in Mindcrack v8.0.1 now, so the Apiarist Database will be updated almost completely through this weekend. Added very rough first drafts for Advanced - DNA Machines and - The Alveary!
1/23/13 -- Stayed up a little bit to write the overview for the Beealyzer and the Apiarist Database. Hopefully there's not too many typos...
1/15/13 -- 1/21/13 -- Not a lot added to this thread, but more bits to the Database. Centrifuge list should be 95%+ complete now.
1/14/13 -- Added the default traits for aprox. 22 bees to the Database; added about 14 combs to the Centrifuge List
1/14/13 -- Added section on Cloning! Short and sweet. ;)
1/13/13 -- v1.0 of the Master Excel file uploaded to Google Docs. Set it to shared w/ link! Currently only shows full(?) list + mutations.


Video Tutorials:
Hypnotizd's Bees Tutorial: From Start to Automation

Other Useful Bee Links:
The *New* Official Forestry Wiki : Beekeeping 101 - Contains much more information about bees, tools, and especially alvearies than the old version
Forestry on the MineCraft Forums - Sometimes useful for chatter about Forestry or bits of news from Sengir
Extra Bees on the MineCraft Forums - Sometimes useful for chatter about Extra Bees or bits of news from Binnie
Extra Bees Official Changelog
MineCraft Bees - Beekeeping Wiki - Wiki created by a couple people from the FTB forums; as it's a wiki, it's straight information without guidance or regards for spoilers. Includes Forestry, Extra Bees, and Thaumic Bees. WIP as well, but there's a lot there finally.
Extra Bees Official Wiki - Seems to be WIP

The Bee Branches - This one is good but out of date now! This guy took the species in the spreadsheet, and strung together the entire path to get each one. Pick a species, get a visual family tree. He contacted me on reddit and asked to the use MAD v2.0 as the resource that the code pulls from, but I haven't seen it updated to work since.
The Bee Database - Yet another visual way to sort through spoiler bee information, looks like the in-game default texture pack and GUI's!

Older Links for Posterity:
Hexflower Mirror - Quick and Uncluttered Bee Species Spoilers; Extra Bee info is out of date though and will not be updated (according to the host on reddit); hexflower.com has been lost



Miscellaneous Information:
...that is most certainly cheaty and spoilerish, and is located here because it doesn't belong anywhere else in the guide.

  • Extra Bees v1.4.9.14+ - In Creative mode, you can now find a full "Master Apiarist Database" in-game, in the Creative inventory.
  • /spawnprincess <playername> <species> and /spawndrone <playername> <species> will give you a default bee of that species
  • Imprinter is a creative-mode, non-craftable machine that can change bees to another species.


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:53 am
Posts: 526
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Getting Started

All things "Bees" are attributed to two mods: Forestry and Extra Bees. Forestry has 26 species, several tools and machines, and bee products which can be processed into a few vanilla items like glowstone. Extra Bees brings the number of bee species to well over 100, and processed bee products result in minerals, gems, and agriculture from vanilla and other mods. Note that if a product/comb makes something for another mod, it might not do anything without that mod installed.

*Note* All tools listed here are Forestry, except the Apiarist Database!

Basic Tools Needed:
  • Scoop - Easily made with sticks and wool. It's a tool and has durability. Used to break Hives and "scoop" out bees
  • Bees from Hives - Hives are found throughout the world! Collect plenty. See below.
  • Apiaries - Bee houses! You need these to breed your bees, and house the Queen while she produces. For Crafting vs. Trading: See below.
  • Flowers - Vanilla flowers for most, but some bees have special tastes.
  • Suitable biome to set up in - Plains or Forest-type is recommended for beginners; a good spot could also be a border of several different biomes, for example: plains/forest bordering a swamp/jungle-type and/or desert-type

Recommended:
  • Beealyzer - I say recommended but if you're trying to do anything specific, you're shooting blind without this tool -- requires Honey drops for every analyze. Shows you the exact traits of a bee. See the Beealyzer section for an in-depth look.
  • Frames - These go inside an Apiary, up to 3, to increase production rates. You don't need them to start, but you may find they help you get much more of those valuable Honey Drops for beealyzing. So many choices, but what do they do? See below.
  • Apiarist's Backpack - Princesses don't stack, and drones only stack if they are "exactly" identical, so this baby comes in handy. It holds 125 bees, and bees dropped on the ground will automatically sort into it.
  • Apiarist's Chest - At least one to start; as you breed and get tons of drones, you're going to want several/many and possibly an Indexer (infinite bee chest from Extra Bees). I like to keep an Apiarist's Chest for each branch I'm working on, and I currently use the Indexer for garbage hybrids but eventually I will use those for Liquid DNA. Find a way to sort the important bees that works for you.
  • Apiarist Database (Extra Bees) - This isn't going to seem as useful as the Beealyzer at the start, because it'll look empty. But as you breed new bees, they'll start to pop up in here. You can use this to see exactly how you got a particular bee, as well as other information that is generic to a species. See the Apiarist Database section for information about the tool, or the Master Apiarist Database for an Excel version of the information (spoilers).

Early Forestry Machines: All require a little bit of MJ power to run (1-2 MJ is enough, but more will run the machines faster)
  • Centrifuge - You'll need one of these pretty early. All combs go through the Centrifuge to extract goodies like Honey Drops for your Beealyzer and Apiaries/Frames
  • Squeezer - You'll need at least one sooner or later, depending on whether you start off making your own Apiaries and Frames. For bees, you'll most likely squeeze seeds/nuts for Seed Oil at the start, and Honey Drops/Dew into Liquid Honey later for Scented Paneling (Alvearies). I actually set up one for each (Seed Oil and Honey) so that I don't have to worry if one is currently occupied by liquid. You can use BuildCraft pipes to pump these liquids straight into a nearby Carpenter, or you can transfer the liquid using a Pipette.
  • Carpenter- This machine crafts a lot of things for bees, including Apiaries, Frames, Sturdy Casings, Scented Paneling, the Beealzyer/Treealyzer/Apiarist Database, and other things for Forestry, like Circuit Boards. All recipes require some amount of a liquid, either Seed Oil, Liquid Honey, or Water (Thermal Expansion's Aqueous Accumulator works great).



Hive Bees

To get started with bees, you first need some bees. :lol:

You have to scoop your first bees out of hives found in the world. Hives house "mundane" bees -- nothing special on their own but required as a starting point to breed (almost) all of the 100+ species. A hive will always contain a Princess, and *usually* a drone (but not always). You might also get a honey comb from a hive, which can be useful to make your first Apiarist's Chest, Backpack, or Honey Drops for your Beealyzer. A quarry from BC will yield bees from hive in it's path, as well as a mining laser.

Searching for bee hives is easier at night because they glow (although more dangerous). Remember you have to break them with a scoop to get bees.

Blue is recommended to get started with Commons and Cultivateds.
Purple is a little tougher but useful enough to be worth it.
Red is not recommended to start because of climate, conditions, Effects, and/or poor bee products (at least initially).


FORESTRY:
ForestHives spawn in forest-type biomes, fairly commonNormal/NormalFlowers
MeadowsHives spawn in plain-type biomes, fairly commonNormal/NormalFlowers
ModestHives spawn in desert-type biomes, fairly commonHot/AridCactus
TropicalHives spawn in jungle-type biomes, rather rareWarm(Both1)/Damp(Down1)Vines/Ferns
MarshyHives spawn in swamp-type biomes, fairly commonWarm/DampMushrooms
WintryHives spawn in tundra-type biomes, fairly commonCold/Normal?Flowers
EXTRA BEES:
MarbleHives spawn in the same areas as Forest and Meadows, very commonNormal/NormalFlowers
RockyHives spawn in stone, not biome specific; they can be found occasionally in the side of a cliff, fairly common undergroundNormal(Both2)/Normal(Both2)Stone
WaterHives spawn underwater, in water-based biomes (including ocean, river, swamps); semi-commonNormal/Damp(Both1)Lily Pad
EmbitteredHives spawn in netherack, in the Nether, rather rareHell/AridNetherwart

Notes: Tropical Hives spawn up on the underside of the top of Jungle trees and are green in default texture - can be very hard to see. Rocky hives can be found in the side of cliffs, but are really common from a quarry. Embittered are like Rocky hives, but embedded in netherack in the Nether and can be hard to see. Water can be common but tough to find on the bottom of the ocean. Wintry hives can be covered with snow (but glow at night through it).

More Notes: You have a chance to get Valiant bees out of any Hive -- this is not a mundane bee. The Ender bee comes from a Hive but also does not count as a Hive/mundane bee. Lastly, Steadfast is not a mutation nor a Hive bee; this bee is rarely found in dungeon chests, and is necessary to breed the Heroic branch.

---------------------------------------------------------------

About Princesses:

Princesses are not unlimited like drones. There is only one real way to get Princesses, and that's by finding Hives in the World and breaking them with a scoop. There is an Alveary block which can create special duplicates of your Princess: these are denoted by a (-) next to the species name, and they will work a random number of generations before they dissapear without leaving new offspring.

The Advanced DNA machines from Extra Bees can also impart this special (-) property on your Princesses if you use less than the absolute best Quality Serums, and those Princesses can then die as well. If you always use perfect Excellent Serums, you should never have this problem.

The Princess is always the last item on the list to appear in the Apiary/Alveary inventory (the slots shaped like a honeycomb). This means if the Apiary's inventory is completely full of combs, specialties and drones already (including drones that just appeared as part of the same offspring/generation), you will lose the princess because there is no room for her. You don't have to worry about this if everything is automated, but be careful [about being lazy like me and leaving things in the Apiary] when breeding or cloning.

The "Lifespan" trait refers to how many cycles/ticks the Queen will work before she dies and creates new offspring. It does not refer to any kind of hidden outside-the-apiary decay, so aside from the special cases noted above, have no fear of randomly losing your Princesses.

But treasure them -- they're ladies, and royalty, after all!

---------------------------------------------------------------


Beekeeper Villager

I'm going to put this guy under "Getting Started", because this is how I always get started: I hunt for a village, with a Beekeeper, in a nice area/biome and I settle down nearby. If you aren't settled near a Village, or a Beekeeper Villager, that's okay, but having one (or more) offers easy paths if you're good at trading with Villagers.

Beekeeper Villagers have very specific trades, with little variance (unlike vanilla villagers), but the mechanics are the same. You make a trade to unlock another trade, do the last trade to refresh all trades, and so on. All of the trades are extremely fair or in favor of the player, but not too overpowered, I think; they offer convenience for good items. It's also designed so that you can deal exclusively with him, if you wish.

Sells - Cost
Apiary - 24 Logs (vanilla trees only)
Proven Frame x6 - Emerald x1 (excellent deal - enough for 2 Apiaries)
Emerald x1 - Any Princess (Be careful with trading away too many Princesses though! You can't make more -- they only come from hives.)
XXX Comb x1 - Wheat x2 (I've seen just about every Forestry Comb available (I think the exception is Mysterious Comb) so you could get really lucky -- Simmering, Silky, Dripping and Stringy are all great to get; this trade could also get you started with Honey drops for your Beealyzer early). The Beekeeper Villager is added by Forestry, so I'm pretty sure he won't carry Extra Bees Frames or Combs.

Keep in mind if you're using a Beekeeper, he only has four trades and the last one is the one that will refresh all of them, including itself. Proven Frames or the Combs *last* is optimal; you might want to consider getting a new Beekeeper if the last trade is Princess.


Apiaries

You can make apiaries at the approximate cost of 10 logs and some seeds. You need a Carpenter, and a Squeezer for Seed Oil, and they require a little MJ power. Or for the seemingly inflated price of exactly 24 logs (vanilla only) you can buy an Apiary from the Beekeeper Villager (you can also steal his!).

I personally prefer to buy them at the start from the Villager and jump straight into my beekeeping (screw making machines!) but making them is really pretty easy -- the machines are some of the cheapest ones in Forestry and are both useful (you also need them to make Frames), so you might want them anyway. The biggest limitation to making them seems to be the seed oil (at least early in the game) unless you're also breeding trees* (and the Frames you buy from Villagers last longer anyway).

Apiaries need to be broken with a pick, and do not have durability - they're good forever. But how many is enough? You need one for every pair of bees. So the more bees you want, the more you need. I keep 3-5 for each branch of bees I'm mutating/cloning, and then of course, you have apiaries for any perfect pairs that are automatated.


*Forestry recently added tree breeding, and a couple trees, like chestnuts/walnuts, add seeds/nuts that yield many times more seed oil than wheat seeds. I'm not sure if wheat seeds got a little nerf but it seems to take a lot to make one Impregnated Frame; 50 wheat seeds to make a single bucket of Seed Oil, compared to 5 walnuts.


Flowers

This information can also be found by species on the Master Apiarist Database (Link at top - spoilers!).

One "flower" is enough to make the bee work. Bees will spread flowers and lily pads to any nearby valid spaces naturally.

Flowers - Vanilla flowers work, as well as Extra Biomes XL; Indigo from RedPower2 works if you enable it in the config
Mushroom - Vanilla
Cactus - Cactus
Rock - (Smooth) Stone
Jungle - Vines and Ferns
Lily Pad - Lily Pad
Nether - Netherwart
Redstone - Redstone torches
End - Dragon Egg
Wheat - planted Wheat
Reeds - Sugarcane


Frames

Forestry: You don't have to have Frames to breed bees, but without Frames, bees in Apiaries do not produce very many combs. Each Forestry Frame increases the production rate (the chance of producing a comb per tick); with 3 Frames you reach approximately 60-70% of the production rate of the higher tier Alveary.
Note: Only difference is durability (not production rate increase).
  • Untreated - Player-made, wooden tool equivalent, cheap and doesn't last long
  • Impregnated - Player-made, 2nd best durability
  • Proven - Beekeeper Villagers only, has the most durability

Extra Bees:
Note: All of these frames have a trade-off, a bonus for a negative affect (both are temporary effects, not permanent modifications to the bee). They are made by crafting Impregnated Frames with other materials (player-made).
  • Chocolate - Impregnated Frame + Cocoa x4
    • Increases production rate by 1.5 (or +50%), decreases lifespan by half
    • My Notes:Greatly speeds up manual cloning
  • Soul - Impregnated Frame + Soul Sand x1
    • Increases mutation chance by 1.5 (or +50%), reduces lifespan by 25%, reduces productivity by 75%
    • My Notes: Amazing for breeding. Not sure if something is buggy or intended but it seemed like early branch mutations would jump to pure very often, rather than hybrid mutations. The cut to production is obvious; lifespan less so but if you're breeding for mutations, shorter lifespan isn't bad. Sadly, the frames don't last long, much like the Impregnated Frame they are made from.
  • Restraint - Decreases territory (area of Effect) by 50%, reduces lifespan and production by 25%
  • Healing - Increases lifespan by 1.5 (or +50%), reduces mutation chance by 50%, reduces production by 25%
  • Nova - Cannot be crafted or obtained in Survival. Cheaty frames for testing mutations quickly. Kills the bee on the next tick of MineCraft.


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:53 am
Posts: 526
Location: Las Vegas, NV
These two tools are immensely useful for breeding good bees. They store a lot of informaton handily in-game. This section will go over how to read the information inside them, and what it means for your bees.


Beealyzer - Forestry

This handheld tool requires Honey drops to analyze the bee you put inside it. To use it, put it on your hotbar and right-click. A GUI should pop up. Honey drops go in the top right corner; the bee you wish to analyze goes in the spot right under that. Place the bee there (you may need to left-click, as if you were picking it up, depending on your version of Forestry). The bee should "pop" to the "I" spot. You can then move the bee to each numeral spot to see different information about that particular bee.

The Beealyzer tells you the exact traits of a single specific bee, which may have been modified through crossbreeding.

There is a stationary machine version of the Beealyzer, which has the added benefit of automating analyzing using BuildCraft pipes, but you can't see all the different information in it -- you still have to take the bee and put it in your handheld Beealyzer.

Two things to keep in mind while using the Beealyzer:
Active and Inactive columns at the top of the first two screens indicate active and inactive (or passive) traits -- active is what the bee wants now, like climate and flowers, but don't discount the inactive traits when you're picking prospects for the next batch.
Dominant traits are red, while Recessive traits are blue.


I. General

This first slot shows two columns, with a list of traits down the left. Most of the time, you will be looking at slot I or II while breeding bees, because that is all the pertinent information about that bee, and all the traits you can breed in or out.

Species - What species the bee is. If these are different the bee is a hybrid; if they are the same in both columns (on both sides) then he is pure.

Lifespan - How long the Queen lives/produces, before she dies in the Apiary. Bees work in ticks/cycles which can be seen as the life bar "ticks" down; a longer Lifespan means more ticks. In the grand scheme of things, it's not the most important trait. You might want Shortest/Shorter for mutating/breeding purposes, Long if you're manually feeding bees for produce, and you might not care at all if it's all automated.
Range: Shortest, Shorter, Short, Normal, Elongated, Long, Longer, Longest

Speed - How "fast" a Queen produces combs. Lots of informed speculation to follow about how production actually works, but the short answer is: "Fast" is better.
Range: Slowest, Slower, Slow, Normal, Fast, Faster*, Fastest*

This explanation will be moving to a more appropriate spot on the future FAQ later.

If you look in the Apiarist Database at any bee's produce, it will tell you a minute value beside the comb. *This is NOT the exact amount of time it takes to make a comb.* This is an approximate/average/statistcal amount of time that it takes an average bee of that species to produce a comb without any modifiers, given it's % chance of producing a comb per tick of a Queen's life. Producing a comb is not actually a timed process like smelting an ore -- it's a roll of the dice. As the Queen's life bar slowly ticks down, a comb has a chance to be produced each time. Things like "Fast" production trait, Frames in an Apiary, or an Alveary are all modifiers that significantly increase that chance to produce a comb, which essentially equates to creating combs faster.

Now, I don't read code, so this is my disclaimer, but this explanation makes a lot of sense to me for a few reasons: Sengir seems to like % chances rather than guarantees with a time sink; it neatly explains why a Comb that supposedly takes 2.5 hours to produce (even though no bee can live that long) can pop up within minutes of placing a Queen in an Apiary; it explains why a line of Apiaries filled with identical Queens can produce different amounts per Lifespan; and this "chance per tick" is also a very familiar mechanic: think wheat/tree growth stages.

*Though Faster and Fastest exist in the Forestry code, Fast speed is the best that is available with Forestry and Extra Bees; Faster and Fastest are available with Thaumic Bees.

Pollin. - This is a recently added trait for Tree breeding. Bees are used to cross-pollinate between different tree species growing nearby. This trait is how often/fast they can pollinate and create mutated leaves.

Flowers - What kind of flowers the bee likes. Very important to watch, as it could change while crossbreeding.

Fertility - How many *drones* the Queen will produce when she dies. Does not include the new princess. Range: 1, 2, 3, 4

I find it rather important that this trait is at least 2, so you get more choices/chances when crossbreeding; however, 3 and 4 are recessive. Only one drone really makes crossbreeding tough, and cloning impossible (have to breed in or inoculate 2+ if you want to clone; watch out for this on rocky-type branches).

Area - The area that you can "receive" the Effects of a bee, good or bad. This might also be the area they will search for flowers in, as well as pollinate trees within, but I have found no solid evidence.

Effect - There is quite a list of effects you can get on bees. Some are good -- like regeneration and experience; many are bad -- such as poison, damage, explosions and fire. Most bees have no effect by default. Good effects are typically recessive, while bad effects are dominant. "None" is also dominant. While a bee could have a different active and inactive effect, they cannot have more than one active effect.


II. Environment

The top half of slot II is all about what biome your bee can work in. All biomes (Vanilla and XLBiomes) have a set climate and humidity. You can find the climate/humidity for a specific biome in game by placing an apiary down in that biome, right-clicking to enter the GUI, and clicking one of the tabs on the right side.

Attachment:
climate.png
climate.png [ 5.24 KiB | Viewed 25782 times ]


This chart shows the range of Climate and Humidity. In the Beealyzer, there's also a trait for Temp. Tol and Humid Tol., and if you look at a bee with Tolerances, you might notice little arrows pointing Up and Down, and it might say something like Up_1, Down_2, Both_1 and so on.
(In the chart above "Up" is up and right, "Down" is down and left -- think + and - like a graph. To me, it's helpful to see both on one chart.)

It's best to explain this with an example: a Tropical bee from the hive likes Warm and Damp the best, but you'll notice he also says T: Both_1, and H: Down_1. If you use the chart above, you can see that he will tolerate 1 hotter (+) than Warm and 1 colder (-) than Warm for Temperature, or Normal and Hot, and he'll also tolerate one down from Damp, or Normal. This means a pure Tropical bee will work in any biome with a combination of: Hot, Warm, Normal (Temp), Damp, and Normal (Humid).

Temperature and Humidity are really important to watch when you're crossbreeding. In the case of the Tropical bee, you might bring him home to your Plains or Forest biome, but one or two frolics with a Forest or Meadows could easily strip his tolerances, and then you've got to haul him back to the nearest Jungle. Even worse, if you're breeding two species with extremely different climates preferences, you could end up with a Princess who won't work anywhere!
(If you're playing with Extra Bees, don't fret too much -- there are machines that can fix this.)


The traits just below Climate are simple Yes/No traits:

Nocturnal - Determines if the bee will work at night, in addition to the daytime; If No, the bee will sleep at night.
Flyer - Determines if the bee will work through the rain; if No, the bee will sleep when it storms.
Cave - Determines if the bee needs clear access to the sky over the Apiary or Alveary; if No, there can be no obstructions *anywhere* above. Transparent blocks like Glass and Glowstone do not count.

Lastly, at the bottom of this screen, it tells you how many generations you've bred. A princess or drone from the hive says "0" generations in captivity. The number of generations is inherited from the Princess. In newer versions of Forestry, drones no longer list how many generations so that drones can stack much easier.


III. Produce

This screen is very simple: it shows you a picture of Possible Produce and Possible Specialty (but it doesn't tell you the name of the item, or how often -- you can find those in the Apiarist Database). Active and Inactive doesn't matter here; you can get any items available to both species of a hybrid. You cannot breed these into one species from another -- they are tied to the bee species.

What's a Specialty? According to Sengir, on the FTB forums, a Specialty is only produced in a "native"/default biome, even if you have bred Tolerances into the bee. If the bee has tolerances in the first place, it seems like any biome that it tolerates by default works (need to confirm). In Forestry, the only bee this applies to is Austere, who only produces Powdery Combs in desert-climates, but there are quite a few bees that this applies to in Extra Bees and Thaumic Bees. Some of these have tolerances naturally, so it might not matter, but something to watch out for if you're looking for specific Specialty production.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Word to the wise: Specialties will only be produced, if the queen is jubilant. That's only the case if she's in her native biome. (Alvearies do not alleviate that, neither does temperature or humidity tolerance. Both temperature and humidity of the current biome must match the native ones of the bee.)

This was your obscure bee mechanic for the day.

(Yes, I know that one isn't really all that intuitive and not documented anywhere.)


-SirSengir on FTB forums

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IV. Evolution

This screen is a little complicated to figure out at first glance. Before you've done any breeding, all you will see is a lot of question marks and arrows. It shows you, again with pictures only, what mutation combinations the Active species is a part of -- *not* what he is a result of -- and these fill in after you find the mutation. They will have question marks until you've bred them together yourself. The bee on the left is the other species in the combination (the one you add to whatever species you're looking at in the Beealyzer); the bee that the arrow is pointing to, on the right, is the resulting mutation.

Since the Beealyzer is a Forestry tool, this is useful for seeing what combinations you haven't tried or discovered yet if you're only playing with Forestry. It's designed to be a checklist.

If you're also using the Extra Bees mod, the Apiarist Database is a whole tool designed for doing this checklist job better, with more detail.


V.

This last slot on the Beealyzer was recently added, and is Forestry's version of defining the bee and which mod it comes from. Classification shows the bee's scientific information: Kingdom, Class, Order, Family, Genus, and Species, and Authority is the mod author (Sengir for Forestry, Binnie for Extra Bees).


Apiarist Database - Extra Bees

The handheld tool doesn't require anything to work. It's a passive tool that records your research (if you've ever played a Pokemon game, think of it as your Pokedex). Every time you breed a new species, it's information pops up in your Apiarist Database. You can put it on your hotbar and right-click to see all the default/generic information for every species you've bred. Note that a bee has to go through an Apiary in some way before it will show up in the Database.

In contrast to the Beealzyer, the Apiarist Database tells you all the default information for a bee species, including what branch it belongs to and how to get the mutation.

There is also a stationary machine version of the Database. It's current function in game is identical to the handheld.


When you right-click the Apiarist Database, you'll notice it reads a little differently than a Beealyzer. On the right, there is a button to switch between Species and Branches. It default mode is Species, which shows 6 tabs down the left (the highlighted one is active), and they have names if you hover over.

Branches has two tabs, and while the information it shows is very simple, it's interesting to note that once you find a bee of a branch and breed it through an apiary, it's Branch pops up on the list, and you can now see all the species that are part of that branch, whether you have discovered them or not, on the second tab.


The rest of this overview will cover the tabs shown in Species mode. Also, my Google doc version (spoiler sheet) of the Master Apiarist Database shows all the data from this mode.

[First Tab] Overview

Shows the scientific name, who discovered it (which mod it comes from; Sengir for Forestry, Binnie for Extra Bees), some "Information" about it, and the Branch that it is part of.


[Second Tab] Genome

Lists the default Speed, Lifespan, Fertility, Flowering (Pollination), Territory, Night (Nocturnal), Darkness (Cave), Rain (Flyer), Flower, and Effect traits for the selected species. Notice how there is no Active and Inactive columns like the Beealyzer. This is what a fresh, "from the hive", untouched, uncrossed bee of this species would look like.

Most bees don't come from a hive, so what's important about this information? Whenever a mutation happens while crossbreeding, it brings with it the chance to bring it's default traits to the table. So even though you may be crossing a Slowest Meadows with a Slower Common, you have a chance to jump to Fast Cultivated.


[Third Tab] Products

This tab tells you exactly what a species produces -- you can see the name by hovering over the comb picture (unlike the Beealyzer) -- as well as how often it will make one.


[Fourth Tab] Climate

Shows the default Climate and Humidity information of a species (similar to the Beealyzer, but in a different way visually). Perhaps more importantly, it offers you a list of all the biomes that this bee can work in, given it's Temperature, Humidity, and tolerances.


[Fifth Tab] Resultant Mutations

This tab shows you the combination(s) that will give you the selected species. You can get the name of the species by hovering over their picture, and see the chance at getting the mutation when you hover over the arrow.


[Sixth Tab] Further Mutations

This is almost exactly the same as the IV slot of the Beealyzer - these are all the mutation combinations that the selected bee is one half of. However, it shows both bees in a 1 + 1 format, and it tells you the names of those species when you hover over the picture (if you've discovered the combination yourself through breeding). It also tells you the mutation chance when you hover over the big arrow.


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:49 pm 
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Crossbreeding - Mutation


Crossbreeding refers to mixing a Princess with a drone of a different species (maybe even more than two, if you're mixing hybrids). The Princess will become a Queen bee, and she will work/produce combs until she dies. But the Princess does not change when she breeds with a drone -- the Queen will be the exact same. It's the offspring -- the new Princess and drones -- who will have mixed traits and a chance to mutate.

To understand how crossbreeding works, and how you can get your bees to mutate into new species, you first need to understand a little bit about very simplified genetics -- basically, how a punnett square works.

Attachment:
punnett.png
punnett.png [ 92.56 KiB | Viewed 25792 times ]


All bees essentially have two sets of traits: Active and Inactive. This includes Species, Temp, Humidity, number of offspring, Flower, and so on. They carry a second passive gene for all of these. Without using a Beealyzer to analyze a specific bee, all you can know about a bee is it's Active species. For our purposes, species is a trait, but for mutating it's the only trait we're looking at.

You should also know that many traits (including species) are either Dominant or Recessive. If a hybrid is made up of a dominant species and a recessive species, the dominant species will always be active. If both are dominant, they might be interchanged, but a Meadows-Forest is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a Forest-Meadows.

Bees that come out of Hives are a pure bee of that species (for example, a red hive will give a Meadows bee -- Meadows is Active and Inactive) and they have a default set of traits that belongs to that species. So Hive bees start out completely pure - the same traits on both sides for every trait.

"Hive" bees (also called mundane) are your starting point for all mutation bees. See "Getting Started" for Hive bee details.

There is a common misconception that when crossing two species for a mutation, a certain species must be the Princess and the other must be the drone. This is not true -- it does not matter which bee is which, only that the two species you cross have a resulting mutation.


Using a Punnett Square for Bees:

A mutation has a chance to occur when you cross two different and specific species. A Common Bee is usually the first mutation you will try for, by crossing any* two Hive bees. On the punnett square, you can see the combinations when you cross two different pure Hive bees:

Bee1/Bee2ForestForest
MeadowsM-FM-F
MeadowsM-FM-F

When a Queen dies and offspring are created, each one draws one of the four options. As you can see above, a pure Forest (top) crossed with a pure Meadows (side) creates all hybrids. A correct hybrid combination then has a small chance to mutate into a pure new species, or a hybrid that includes a new species (such as a Common-Forest or Common-Meadows, in this case). So crossing two pure bees gives you the best chance at a mutation.


Let's look at two hybrids:

Bee1/Bee2MeadowsForest
MeadowsM-MM-F
ForestM-FF-F

Crossing two hybrids will give you a 50% chance of getting pure bees back and 50% chance of hybrids (each offspring). Because you get less hybrids, you get less opportunities for mutation.

What if we got a Common-Forest offspring? What should be breed with it?

Bee1/Bee2CommonForest
ForestC-FF-F
ForestC-FF-F

Bee1/Bee2CommonForest
MeadowsC-MM-F
MeadowsC-MM-F

Bee1/Bee2CommonForest
CommonC-CC-F
MeadowsC-MM-F

Looking at the three charts above, it's clear breeding a pure species of the same Hive bee (Forest) is not a great option -- there's a 50% chance of pure Forest bees back, and a 50% chance of getting more Common-Forest hybrids (which have a small chance to mutate to Cultivated). No opportunity for pure Commons though.

A pure Meadows is a better option: 50% chance at C-M (chance for mutation to Cultivated) and a 50% chance for M-F (chance for mutation to Common).

Alternatively, if you were specifically looking for pure Commons, you could breed another Common hybrid: 25% chance at pure Common (no mutation), 50% chance for a Common hybrid (chance for mutation to Cultivated), and 25% chance for hybrid (chance for mutation to Common).


Keep in mind that this table doesn't take into account the effects of Recessive vs. Dominant species. Also, because each offspring is independent of each other, and you're really trying for two pure mutations (a princess and a drone), your chances of getting two bees you want is statistically a bit lower. Between the two dependent variables above (chance to draw a correct combination, and chance to mutate from correct combination), and these two side notes, it can sometimes feel like you get a lot more poor draws than seems fair. This is why it's so important to understand the system, and pick the best candidates for the best chances. It's also why it's so exciting when you get exactly what you want.


---------------------------------------------------------

Explanation from Sengir:

Chromosomes
Each bee has a genome made up of 13 "chromosomes". Each chromosome represents a characteristic where "Species" is one of the characteristics. (For a full breakdown of the genome see http://forestry.sengir.net/wiki/index.p ... n#Genetics) Each chromsome is again made up of two "alleles". One allele is primary, one is secondary (0 - 1).


(The 13 chromosomes are: Species, Lifespan, Speed, Pollination, Fertility, Flower, Area, Effect, Temperature, Humidity, Nocturnal, Flyer, Cave)

Alleles
Each allele contains information on a characteristic. I.e. you can have a chromosome 0 that represents "Meadows-Meadows", meaning that the primary allele is Meadows and the secondary Meadows as well. You can also have a chromosome 9 "Cave dwelling - Not cave dwelling". Any combination of those two genes is possible without regard to recessesive or dominant. You can have a "Diligent-Meadows" chromosome, even though Diligent is recessive and Meadows is dominant.

However, only one of the two alleles will be active and actually affect the bee. If the characteristics on both alleles are dominant or both are recessive, the active allele will always be the primary. If the primary allele is recessive and the secondary dominant though, the secondary will override the primary and become the active allele. (There is an exception for some very rare bee effects which can actually be kind of "co-dominant", but I'll not spoil that. )

Inheritance
Now, when a queen dies and a new princess/drone is spawned the following occurs:

Parent 1: Meadows-Meadows (pure Meadows), Parent 2: Forest-Diligent

On spawning the new bee, Forestry will at random choose one allele of Parent 1 and one allele of Parent 2 and recombine them as a new chromosome for the offspring. The above example can thus lead to:

Meadows-Forest (active: Meadows), Forest-Meadows (active Forest), a Meadows-Diligent (active: Meadows) or a Diligent-Meadows (active: Meadows; Diligent is recessive!) bee.


(This is the punnett square; next he talks about how coding diverges after the basic punnett square effect...)

Mutation
Only on the species chromosome there is another quirk: "Mutation" to simulate a kind of evolution. Certain combinations of bee species have a chance to yield a new one. The combination Meadows-Forest is one of those and can yield the Common allele with a pretty high chance. Before Forestry chooses a new allele for the offspring from the two randomly chosen alleles of the parents, it will compare them and if there is a mutation and if that mutation wins the dice roll, the resulting allele will not be one of the origin alleles, but rather the mutated one.

This adds the following possible outcomes to our above example: Common-Diligent (active: Common), Diligent-Common (active: Common; again, Diligent is recessive!), Meadows-Common (active: Meadows) and Common-Meadows (active: Common). Note that Forest-Common is not a possibility since its single allele is always required by the Common mutation.

(Note: That's off the top of my head, I am pretty sure I got the example right, but I haven't looked at the code in a while.)


(Here he explains that each new allele for species is chosen seperate, which explains why you usually get hybrid mutations as opposed to pure mutations: Say the an offspring rolls Forest-Meadows as it's outcome; because that's a correct mutation combination, each allele (Active and Inactive) now rolls to see if it mutates, independant of eachother, but dependant on that Forest-Meadows draw. In order to get a pure mutate, you need both alleles to roll a mutation at a 12% chance for Common, which is a 1.44% chance if you know your statistics.)

-SirSengir on the FTB forums

---------------------------------------------------------


This simple table is not an exact science but it's a guideline that can be carried over to every single mutation -- you just have to know which two species to cross. Common and Cultivated are a 15% and 12% chance to mutate from their respective combinations, but some chances to mutate are much smaller than others. Some species are recessive and more easily "lost" so picking the best odds is to your advantage. It should also be noted that some bees require a special biome (for example, Rural bees are only possible in a vanilla Plains biome; Heroic is only possible in a vanilla Forest). As well, some combinations can split into 2 or more different branches; for example, Common + Cultivated can mutate to a Noble bee (Noble branch) --or-- a Diligent bee (Industrious branch). See the Master Apiarist Database (Link at top - spoilers!) for more information.

When you're manually crossbreeding to mutate up to a specific species, it's a good idea to do many similar pairs at the same time, check all of them, and pick the best combinations from the batch. More pairs means more chances at good offspring for the next generation.

Once you start to see a mutation amongst a pair (or several pairs) of bees, the next step is to "purify" -- the goal is a pair of purebred bees of your new mutation, where the princess and a drone are the same species on both sides of the Beealyzer. You may even want to take it further and purify or "stabilize" every single trait for both bees, so that, for example, all future offspring stay fast with long life. From this one pure pair, many more pure pairs can be made by cloning.

Once you have a purebred pair, you may want to pause at this point for a few reasons: Refine the traits for the future generations (carefully adding in longer life, temperature tolerance, nocturnal/flyer, etc), or Clone several copies of the pair so that you have a backup in case your next crossbreeding attempts goes horribly wrong, or if you have Extra Bees installed, you can use several nifty machines to vastly improve your pair's traits before you clone. See the sections on Refining, Cloning, or Advanced - DNA Machines, for more details!


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:49 pm 
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Crossbreeding - Refining Traits


The process for refining traits is a lot like for mutating. You'll probably even do a little refining while trying to get mutations; for example, if you are trying to decide which drone to throw back in the crossbreeding mix, they might be nearly identical, but one has "fast" while another has "slowest" -- it's an easy choice. You can continue to use the Punnett Square for refining as well, as all traits are chosen in the same manner.

The main difference between crossbreeding for mutations and crossbreeding to refine traits is that you are most likely trying to refine/add/remove traits in a pure pair of bees, and you want them to stay pure.

NOTE: It is a good idea to create backups of advanced species through cloning, before introducing new species/traits. Sometimes no amount of caution can overcome horrible RNG. If an Imperial/Industrious/Austere/etc. Princess becomes completely ruined and unsalvageable (or worse, poofs to some glitch in the game), I hope for your sake it's not your only one!

ADVANCED DNA MACHINES: Manually (and carefully) crossbreeding to improve traits is an old-school Forestry-only skill (or early game). If you're playing with Extra Bees, there are lots of neat "advanced" machines that can take do amazing things for your bees. They essentially eliminate the guesswork of breeding and traits, and make it relatively easy to make super bees and save backups of species (without saving Princesses). See the Advanced - DNA Machines section for more information!


Example: Removing "Poison" effect from pure Tropical bees

The problem with Tropicals is that all Tropicals straight from the Hive have poison! You want to keep your pure Tropicals making their lovely Silky Combs but you can't breed in more Tropicals to get rid of the poison because they all have it.

In order to remove the poison, you have to crossbreed a species without detrimental effects, but you have to be very careful. If you cross a Common, you introduce the chance to mutate to Cultivated, because Tropical is a Hive bee -- that's not you want. You also have to be careful of using a Dominant species to refine a Recessive species, as the Dominant may take over. Even worse, poison is a dominant trait, making it a long task to get rid of. If you're not careful, instead of Tropicals with no poison, you could end up with horrible Cultivateds with poison that you have to scrap.

Refining a species is a much more careful process than mutating. You have to know what you want to end up with, and decide what to cross to get to it. You have to backtrack often to ensure that your pure species retains that purity in the end, and any good traits it already has.

Let's say we decide to use pure Cultivateds (D) to get our poison-less Tropicals (R). We might start by adding in a Cultivated drone to our Tropical Princess. The first offspring will be all hybrids of Tropical and Cultivated, and will (most likely) have poison on the Tropical side, and no poison on the Cultivated side -- including the Princess.

We know from our Punnett Square that crossbreeding two hybrids has a 50% chance to produce pures, but we really should stay away from the chance of a pure Cultivated Princess, especially since Tropical is recessive. So for the second generation, we might put a pure Tropical drone back in, even though he has poison on both sides, to get back to pure Tropical before we add in another Cultivated, or hybrid.

In this case, you also want to keep an eye on other good traits that you may not want to lose. Hive Tropicals can produce in Normal/Normal climates but only because they have tolerances (Both1/Down1). Temperature and Humidity tolerances are a trait, and Cultivateds don't have any by default. Also Cultivateds can have a production speed of Fast -- that would be nice to have on our Tropicals. So every time you check your offspring with a beealyzer, you're looking at several traits, and tossing out bad draws, just like with mutating.

To wrap this example up, our ideal end product would be pure Tropicals with: no poison, retained tolerances, and fast production with short lifespan (as opposed to shortest). To give you an idea, it takes me approximately 30 generations to reach this final perfect pair.



Traits:

Many traits, and especially good effects, do not become an option until you get to more advanced species. However, a few tips: "Fast" production first appears on Cultivateds (which is usually why you want to keep a lot of good, pure Cultivateds on hand, besides the fact that Cultivateds are used in LOTS of mutations); Valiants have Long lifespan by default; and Rocky bees have Both_2 (Temp and Humidity), as well as Nocturnal/Cave/Flyer, straight from the Hive.

Everything on the first two tabs of the Beealyzer is a trait that can be passed to other bees and other species of bees. Some have options, some are simple yes/no.

Honey Combs and other bee-produced items are not a trait -- they are specific to a species. You cannot get a pure Cultivated who produces Silky Comb, or a pure Rocky bee who produces Pollen, etc.


Further explanations of traits, as well as all the available options, can be found in the Beealyzer section, or on the Master Apiarist Database (Link at top - spoilers!).


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:50 pm 
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Cloning

So you've got a pure pair of [insert species here]...now what? Chances are you don't want just one pair. In fact, I guarantee you don't want just one!

Whether you want more pairs for more advanced mutations, backups, or increased production rates of a particular product (more bees = more goodies, right?), there is an easy way to do it -- cloning! Once you have a good pair, princess and drone, you can clone that species with those traits to as many princesses as you need.

  • To start, set up Apiaries in a line (as many as you want to clone). Your pure pair goes in the first Apiary. If you want, you can mark it with a sign.

  • All other Apiaries get a Princess only. Hive princesses are fine, just make sure they can breed in the climate of the Apiary to start, even if you're cloning a species with a slightly different climate, or with tolerances. (Remember, the princess doesn't change -- her offspring are different). For example, if you're cloning Diligent (Normal/Normal), you could use a Wintry Princess but the Apiary needs to be in a tundra climate for the first generation (possibly more). This could be slightly more annoying that using Forest, Meadows, or Marble, which are Normal/Normal already.

  • In the first Apiary, your pure pair is going to keep breeding to produce more drones. Let's say your pair produces 2 drones every generation of offspring. One goes back in the first Apiary with the princess who is being cloned. The other drone goes in the second Apiary.

  • Discard any drones that do not come from the first Apiary (the pure pair). Keep adding the extra drone from the pure pair to the second Apiary until the second princess and her offspring exactly match the first pair. Once the second Princess matches, take her extra drone(s), as well as the first Apiary's extra drone, and mix it in to the 3rd and 4th Apiaries.

  • Rinse and repeat down the line -- adding the perfect drones to the Princesses-to-be-cloned, and discarding any mixed/hybrid drones, until *all* desired princesses exactly match the first.

Cloning is a process that can be automated in different ways with other FTB mods. It's a little bit trickier now that drones stack (and will stack up to 64 in an apiary first).



How Does it Work?

Basically you're taking the traits of the perfect pair, and by adding perfect offspring to random princesses over and over again, you're forcing those traits on to the offspring of the random bees. Because you're always adding a drone with the traits you want on both sides, you are always setting up your best chances for the bees you want back out, until there are no other options but to match. It usually only takes a handful generations to clone, unless you're really unlucky, or a lot of the traits to-be-cloned are recessive.

Keep in mind that if you use drastically different base bees (like the Wintry Princess above, while trying to clone jungle or desert clime bees) you could get a Princess that's near unusable because of mixed climate preferences that pop up before they are completely cloned.


Why Exactly Do I Want More Than One Pair?

Always have a backup plan. Crossbreeding can go horribly wrong. You might think you're done with a species, only to find out a week later you need a pair for this other branch. Sometimes the game is just buggy -- for example, my automated setup, after several days of running just fine, suddenly lost one of my fast poison-less Tropical Princesses. My suggestion is to always keep an extra pure pair in storage for safe keeping of the species.

If you want to mass produce something (like Pollen, Royal Jelly, Silk Wisps, etc.) you probably want more than one pair doing the work. Say you managed to get a pair with great traits, like fast and long lives, and two pairs of the same species with mediocre traits. You might want to simply clone those good traits over so that all three are the same. Even with full Advanced DNA Machines, I'll super-fy the traits of one pair of a species, and use apiaries/chocolate frames to quickly clone more with those same traits.


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:50 pm 
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Previously for the Master Apiarist Database -- now saving this post to add something else...

...possibly Thaumic Bees (eventually?)


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:50 pm 
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Crafted Bee Products

Specialty honeycombs can make a wide variety of resources renewable. Combs are put through a Centrifuge (not to be confused with an Industrial Centrifuge) to extract basic products. For a list of combs and what they centrifuge into, see the Master Apiarist Database (Link at top - spoilers!).

NOTE: In FTB packs, combs from Extra Bees give different products when centrifuged, depending on GregTech. If you are using a pack that does not have GregTech included (or you have disabled it), then metal/alloy type bees will give full-sized dusts and whole gemstones @ 25% per comb. If you have GregTech enabled, you will get Tiny Piles of Dust (for all metals/alloys/gems) @ 100% chance. These can be combined (2x2 in a crafting grid) to get full sized dusts. Gemstone dusts then require going through an Industrial-Implosion-something (lol, I'll fix this later) fueled by iTNT.

A very few basic products (like special types of Propolis) are further passed through a Squeezer to get other products. Honey Drops and Honey Dew can be put through a Squeezer to get liquid honey, which is used to make things like Frames, Apiaries, and Scented Paneling for Alveary blocks in a Carpenter. Liquid honey can be transferred by BC pipes or liquiducts, and also stored in tanks.

Bees also offer some alternative ways to get things that aren't directly produced by combs, such as Catalyst for Forestry farms, Pipe Waterproof for BuildCraft pipes, or Slimeballs.



Furthermore, there are some exclusive bee recipes -- things that can only be made if you do bees. All of these are Forestry.

Ambrosia - A food that gives you a 40 second Regeneration buff and has very high saturation!
Requires: Wax Capsule x1, Honeydew x5, Royal Jelly x3

Honeyed Slice - Gives 4 full drumsticks
Requires: Bread surrounded by Honey Drop (x8) - yield 4

Wax Cast - Used for making Stained Glass
Requires: Beeswax (8) in a chest shape

Stained Glass - (16) Colored variants of glass; careful -- cannot be broken and got back (even with Silk Touch)
Requires: Dye x1, Propolis x1, Wax Cast x1 in a Thermionic Fabricator; 1 Glass block is enough heat for 1 Stained Glass

Stamps - Used to send letters and items with the Trade Station and Mailboxes
Requires: Paper x3, Honey Drop x3 + Apatite or Ingots for different values

Wax Capsule - Can replace Cans (Tin) in a lot of recipes; cannot hold lava
Requires: Beeswax x3

Refractory Capsule - Just like Wax Capsules, but hold lava
Requires: Refractory Wax x3

Depleted Honey Crystal - EU battery, holds 8k EU

Rainmaker - A machine that let's you turn on the rain by adding an Iodine Capsule, or turn off the rain by adding a Dissipation Charge.


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:51 pm 
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Automation

(placeholder)

Good thread to look at until I get something here: http://forum.feed-the-beast.com/threads/bee-automation.2578/#post-27463


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 Post subject: Re: Sunny's Bee Guide - WIP
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:51 pm 
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Advanced - DNA Machines

All of these machines are from Extra Bees.

These machines don't let you skip bee breeding, but when you're established with a nice supply of bees, and power infrastructure, they can make your life a lot easier. The T3 machines are not cheap to make or power, but T3 is where all the fun is.

My ultimate recommendation is to always breed pure species manually, but with these machines, don't worry too much about the traits. Once you have a pure Princess and Drone of the desired species, then go to town inoculating fast, nocturnal, cave, etc. to make some super bees.

Beyond the materials for the machines, you also need a steady supply of drones for bee DNA -- you can't use the Synthesizer to charge the Serums without DNA. You need Royal Jelly to craft Empty Serum Vials. Keep in mind than none of the machines except the Acclimatizer do any good on their own -- you need several which work hand in hand.

Most importantly, when playing with the EB machines never Inoculate a Princess with a trait Serum with less than max Excellent Quality! Using less than the best has a chance to give the Princess the [-] temporary trait, and she will die without leaving offspring.


Disclaimer: Because this is Extra Bees, and it's a beta, things may change in-game, but not be reflected here right away. I will do my best to keep up with Binnie.


"Machine" Blocks: These are used in crafting only
T1 - Apiarist Machine
T2 - Genetic Machine
T3 - Advanced Genetic Machine


TIER 1

Acclimatizer - Can change a bees tolerances for Temperature and Humidity
  • Power: Stores 1k MJ, Max Input: 50 MJ/t, Uses: 2.5 MJ/t
  • Requires: various resources, and a bee to change
  • Lava, Blaze Powder changes Temperature: Both or Up
  • Sand changes Humidity: Both or Down
  • Snowballs (or Ice) changes Temperature: Down
  • Water changes Humidity Up? Haven't confirmed
  • Item is consumed as the machine runs but does not give a change every single time! Very small chance (one Temp change cost me well over a stack of cells)
  • Do not use buckets! It eats them! I suggest wax/refractory capsules.
  • My Notes: Can be costly but worth it for branches like the Nether bees, to get them into the Overworld. Introduces the Tolerance on one side of the genome at a time. Don't do Queens, as that only affects the Princesses traits; instead do the drone and Princess before breeding. Not ideal for a long-term solution for *all* bees, as it can take tons of lava/sand/snow but definitely earns it's place as a T1 macine, and in some cases it's the only way to get enough of a Tolerance adjust from Cold or Hellish -- other than that, look into breeding in the Tolerances, or creating a Serum and inoculating.


TIER 2

Genepool - Melts bees into Liquid DNA
  • Power: Stores 2k MJ, Max Input: 100 MJ/t, Uses: 5 MJ/t
  • Requires: bees to melt
    • Note that the Genepool is not very smart yet and will keep melting bees even if there's no room for more DNA
  • Has an internal tank; can use BC pipes/liquiducts to pipe out to a tank or other machines
  • Analyzed bees give more DNA

Sequencer - Writes a bee species to a Template
*Rumor is this one will change because it's not useful (supposedly it only works on hive bees and Commons); it's task can be filled by the Isolator, which can extract the species of any bee. I don't know much else about it.

Splicer - Uses a Template and Liquid DNA to change a bee into another species
*Designed to work with the Sequencer -- does that mean this one is going to change too?


TIER 3

Isolator - Can extract *any* trait, including species, from a bee into a Vial
  • Power: Stores 60k MJ, Max Input: 1k MJ/t, Uses: 50 MJ/t
  • Requires: a bee with the desired trait; Empty Serum Vial (require Royal Jelly)
  • Machine does it's magic and the Empty Serum Vial becomes a vial with a random trait from the bee
  • Has a fairly large chance to "eat" the bee every time it creates a Serum
  • Serum Vials get a "Quality" -- Never use a Serum Vial with less than max Excellent Quality
  • Serum Vials with undesired traits can be "cleaned" (sterilized?) by throwing them in a Furnace
  • My Notes: Very balanced now that the bee has a chance to get eaten, as it doesn't completely nullify good old-fashioned manual breeding. Requires a Genepool, Synthesizer, and Inoculator to actually get the trait from a Serum Vial to a new bee, and a Purifier is absolutely necessary to utilize all this fully, as using Serum Vials that are less than max Excellent has a very high chance of adding the [-] temporary Princess symbol to your bee. This means she can poof without leaving an heir!

Synthesizer - Charges up a Serum with Liquid DNA
  • Power: Stores 40k MJ, Max Input: 1k MJ/t, Uses: 50 MJ/t
  • Requires: Liquid DNA; Isolator for Serum Vials; Inoculator to apply charged Serum Vial
  • Serum holds 16 charges
  • Has a chance to lower the Quality of the Serum as it charges - do not use a Serum with less than max Quality!
  • Liquid DNA can be piped in

Purifier - Increases the Quality of a Serum Vial that contains a trait
  • Power: Stores 50k MJ, Max Input: 2k MJ/t, Uses: 100 MJ/t
  • Requires: Liquid DNA and a Serum
  • My Notes: Always charge the Serum fully before and then run it through the Purifier; never vice-versa. The Synthesizer will ruin the Quality, but it can be fixed after it's full. Takes a lot of power per Serum but definitely worth it.

Inoculator - Adds a trait from a Serum Vial to a bee
  • Power: Stores 75k MJ, Max Input: 500 MJ/t, Uses: 25 MJ/t
  • Requires: Liquid DNA; a bee (princess, drone or queen? need to verify); a Serum
  • Might use more than one charge to get it on the bee
  • Lower Quality Serums have a chance to corrupt the bee by adding harmful Effects to it
  • When a Serum is out of charges, you do not lose the Trait (reusable)
  • My Notes: Because you have a high chance of losing the bee, it's not worth it to try to pull the species out -- manually breeding a pure pair is still very valuable. But once you have that pure pair, you can skip the tedious refining by simply inoculating the Princess and Drone with all the best traits. This gives them the traits on both sides, so that when you breed them, those traits are already pure. You can inoculate a Queen, but you're basically only giving the traits to Princess's side of the family, and you'll most likely have to do it again with the next generation.

Replicator - Makes an exact copy of a Serum Vial that contains a trait
  • Power: Stores 40k MJ, Max Input: 1k MJ/t, Uses: 50 MJ/t
  • Requires: MJ power; Empty Serum Vial; anything else?
  • Has a chance to lower the Quality of the Serum each time it duplicates (the copy is the same lowered Quality)
  • Charges don't carry over to the copy, which means the copied Quality really doesn't matter!
  • My Notes: Sort of useful, but not as useful as you'd think. It's really easy to get several Serums of a trait. This would be more useful if you could use up an entire Serum and it poofed but currently, when it becomes empty, it's simply empty and you can recharge it again. Unless you're running more than one Inoculator constantly, there's really no need for more than one. Although, if you're on a multiplayer server, it could be useful for sharing rare serums with friends.


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